What is Street Food?

Source:http://goasia.about.com/


Sometimes called hawker food, noodle carts, street carts, or hawker stalls, street food is served from simple carts that usually specialize in one dish or only a small handful of offerings. Because the cook solely prepares the same dish night after night, they master it well.


Don't expect a restaurant experience! Eating street food in Asia is about one thing: the food. With the exception of food courts where many hawker carts set up under one roof, you may find yourself perched on a simple plastic stool or even sitting on the dirty curb. Without the need to pay for real estate or hire staff, street food vendors have low overhead.


Time and energy are rarely wasted on ambiance; instead, the cook focuses on serving great food for the lowest price possible. While you may or may not have a comfortable place to sit, hawker food is always cheaper than similar offerings in restaurants. Rather than commit to a single dish, you can often nibble, sample, and try several local specialties without breaking your budget.
See these 10 budget travel tips.
Is Street Food in Asia Safe?


If you haven't encountered street food before, don't be afraid! Seeing raw meat hanging by the side of the road can appear a little daunting to the uninitiated, but hawkers often feed their friends, family, and themselves from the same cart; they don't want to make anyone sick.

Unlike the food cooked behind curtains in dirty restaurant kitchens, your cook prepares the meal directly in front of you within plain view. In places such as Penang, Malaysia, hawker food carts serving bad or dangerous food would never last long!


The best way to ensure a safe street food experience in Asia is to patronize carts that have a high turnover. The more customers served, the better your chance that ingredients are fresh because they must be purchased daily.
Learn more about the delicious food in Southeast Asia.

The best street food in New York

Forget hot dogs and pretzels, in New York you can eat like a king on the sidewalk, as the city's annual street food awards show.

Rafael Soler of Solber Pupusas picks up his award at the 2011 Vendy's; (below right) his Salvadorian patties; (above right) the Taco Truck won Best of New Jersey award

Who slings the best hash on the streets of New York? That question was answered on Saturday (24 September) at the 7th Annual Vendy Awards, the biggest and most ambitious yet, with over 1,700 people attending on Governors Island, half a mile south of Manhattan, and voting for five of the six awards.
The only judged award, decided by a panel of experts, is the Vendy Cup, which this year went to Brooklyn-based Salvadorians Rafael Soler and Reina Bermudez-Soler of Solber Pupusas (locations: Brooklyn Flea, Smorgasburg, Red Hook ball fields, Brooklyn. See video below). A pupusa is a Central American speciality of handmade corn patties stuffed variously with meats, cheeses and vegetables. Paired with sweet plantains, tamales, pickled onions and cabbage, jalapenos, and their own special sauces, and you have the makings of the best street food in New York.
Until fairly recently, it was difficult to find little else but hot dogs, pretzels and knishes on New York streets. But several years ago, a few upscale food trucks such as Treats Truck, Schnitzel & Things, Rickshaw Dumplings and Wafels & Dinges popped up, taking street food in the city to a new level. Their success brought about a whole new generation of food trucks to American streets. In 2011 alone, trucks serving lobster rolls have increased from zero to two, grilled cheese trucks from zero to three, and Korean taco trucks from zero to three, with Korilla BBQ taking home this year's Vendy Award for Rookie of the Year.
The first gourmet food truck in the US is generally acknowledged to be Kogi BBQ, serving Korean-Mexican fusion cuisine in Los Angeles. But while LA has a large and varied food truck scene, the diversity of street food in New York, and the ability to walk up to a food truck or cart instead of driving to it, makes New York the epitome of street food culture.
Desserts are also an important part of the New York street food scene, and the Best Dessert category at the 2011 Vendy Awards, won by Wooly's Ice, is another example of a new street cart making a big splash.
The treats from Wooly's Ice are inspired by Hawaiian and Taiwanese shaved ice stands, which the cart's founders visited while growing up. They beat a New York dessert staple, cannolis (Sicilian pastries) from La Bella Torte, cupcakes from the Cupcake Crew, Mexican paletas (ice pops) from La Newyorkina and soft ice cream with creative toppings from Miss Softee.
The Vendy Awards branched out in 2011 and added a new category for the Best of New Jersey, with some great new food trucks having opened across the Hudson River in Hoboken and Jersey City. The Taco Truck took home the award for its mouth-watering plates of tacos al pastor (adobo pork and pineapple), pescado (breaded catfish tacos) and elotes (corn on the cob with mayo, cojita cheese and chili powder).
While it was brutally humid on Saturday at the Vendy Awards, the rain didn't come and the food was amazing, and proof that you can now eat like a king on the sidewalk.


Source: theguardian.com

Athens' best street foods and stalls

Source: theguardian.com

Where should you go for a bite to eat on the streets of Athens? The Culinary Backstreets network can show you the way, for fresh koulouri breads and the Athenian twist on a hot dog

Koulouri, a sesame-covered bread that makes a popular snack in Athens. All photos by Manteau Stam

Before we get down to the business of discussing the best Athens street food, a disclaimer: Athens is at a disadvantage when it comes to streetside eats. For one thing, a lot of venues – souvlaki joints, pizza parlours and even offal soup places – are open all night or even 24/7; they are just not serving on the street, though. Whatever the reason, there are really just two main street foods in Athens: koulouri (sesame bread) which is eaten early in the morning or really, really late at night, and old-fashioned hot dogs, for people who have had a bit to drink and are looking for something greasy and filling.

Koulouri

Greeks are not a nation of breakfast eaters, so koulouri, a plain, circular bread topped with sesame seeds, tends to be the morning fare for most people. There is something seriously sweet and fresh about these bread rings, which are sold on most street corners in downtown Athens. The bread must be eaten fresh, so it is best consumed early in the morning or at places that have high turnover. In recent years, koulouri has evolved similarly to bagels in the US, with new flavours in addition to the traditional plain variety. There is now koulouri with cheese (usually feta), koulouri with chocolate (not our personal favourite), koulouri with cream cheese (an interesting option but not for the summer months, as it tends to melt) and, our absolute favourite, koulouri stuffed with black or green olives.
Though there are numerous koulouri vendors in Athens, three in particular stand out for us. Our preferred stand usually runs out before 2pm, thanks to its central location opposite the old Church of Agii Theodori in downtown Athens, at the intersection of Dragatsaniou and Evripidou, an area home to a number of banks and public services. What we love about this place is that the guy also sells small portions of yellow cheese or triangular white cheese (good old Laughing Cow) to go with your koulouri. Though nothing fancy, it turns out to be quite a lovely breakfast on the go.
For pure freshness, another perennial favourite of ours is the stand outside Zara on Ermou Street in Syntagma. The man who runs it always asks how you prefer your koulouri (well-baked or not so well-baked). We're also partial to the koulouri stand located just where Stadiou meets Paparigopoulou near Klafthmonos Square. This guy is famous for two things: the first is the quality of his koulouri, which is made with extra leavening and has more of a sourdough taste than most versions; the second is the guy's fantastic banter. When you ask for koulouri, he asks you how many. If you reply "one", he always says, "One equals none."
These days, a bakery named To Koulouri tou Psyri (Agias Theklas 23) – in the once hip and happening neighbourhood of Psyri – supplies koulouri to most of the street stands around Athens. It started in the 1990s as a tiny, humble, hole-in-the-wall bakery for all of the young people who partied in the area. Psyri may no longer be fun and hip, but the bakery has become one enormous shop that is open virtually 24/7, and it makes a great stop after a night out drinking.

Hot dog trucks

Our two favourite vromiko – a colloquial term for food trucks – are both located in downtown Athens and serve hot dogs and sandwiches until the early hours. We're also quite fond of two other hot dog trucks, the first of which goes by the name Johnie Hot Dog (136 Andrea Syngrou). This bright red truck is parked on busy Syngrou Avenue outside Panteion University, the city's university for social and political sciences. Almost a gourmet hot dog truck, it offers four types of sausage and a number of "exotic" extras, such as jalapeños. Our favourite is the Athenian version of a corn dog, a frankfurter sausage served with sweetcorn, cheddar cheese and mayo. At night there is often mayhem here as Syngrou is home to a number of strip joints, bouzouki places and nightclubs.
The infamous Meraklis food truck is stationed at the edge of the Phaleron neighbourhood, close to both the marina and the tram lines. Meraklis specialises in what one could call the down-and-dirty version of a giant charcuterie sandwich, which is a veritable protein fest – salami, mortadella, ham, smoked bacon, turkey and gouda cheese (you can even opt for blue cheese for that extra kick), all in the same sandwich. This is a meat-lovers' sandwich for those who are either super-hungry, excessively drunk or, as is usually the case, both.

Five new street food trends

Source: theguardian.com

Street traders are the first to offer the latest food trends, from friands (the new cupcakes) to agua frescas (Mexican drinks). What's cooking on a street near you?

Tinderbox: taking smoked food up a level.

Blondies are the new brownies. Burmese is the new Vietnamese. And tea is the new coffee. That's what the trend predictors said about 2013, and street food traders are doing their best to keep up with it all. Whether it's waffles, empanadas or pambazos, the first place you'll find the latest food trend is on the street.

1. Friands

We used to get excited about cupcakes – not any more. We're over them. So, ladies and gentlemen, I give you the friand. These small French cakes, made with almond flour and egg whites, are light but beautifully chewy and moist. Baked in distinctive banquette moulds, they look like spongy little gold bars. They're what teatime was made for.
Visitors to the Friand Cake Company in Edinburgh are tempted with a huge array of flavours including chocolate, fig and amaretto, and raspberry and pistachio – and baker Karen Kennedy's gooey fillings add a vivid splash of colour. There is a real sense of craftsmanship to Kennedy's cakes, particularly the beautiful selection boxes filled with five varieties scaled down to miniature, bite-sized morsels.

2. Agua frescas

In Yorkshire, people are prepared to take two buses to try Chinampas's agua frescas. With good reason. Agua frescas – literally translated as "fresh waters" – are the drink of Mexico. Ice-cold and colourful, they're everywhere from Chiuahua in the north to Chiapas in the south. Following notes scribbled on napkins from generous traders up and down the country, Chinampas is now showing the UK there's more to drink in Mexico than tequila. Try the Flor de Jamaica (hibiscus), Tamarindo or Horchata (rice milk with almond, cinnamon and vanilla).

3. Jian bing

Heard of the jian bing? It's not quite a crepe, not quite a burrito, and Mei Mei Street Cart is the first to offer it up in London. The soya milk pancake is cooked fresh to order, sprinkled with spring onion and coriander, brushed with hoisin sauce, chilli and soya bean paste, and folded around roasted duck or char siu honey roast pork. Topped with a fried wonton cracker and it's good to go. See? You want one.

4. Arepas

People will queue for arepas from Guasacaca in London without knowing exactly what they're queueing for – such is the buzz around them on Twitter. Arepas are round cornbread patties from Venezuela, two fists big and the team stuff them with shredded beef, black beans, grated cheese, avocado and chicken. Just don't forget the picante sauce.

5. Smoking

Pickling, brining and smoking were picked out as THE hot trends for Britain this year. But the street isn't really the place to pickle and brine. Smoking, however – with all its attendant stoking, coking and poking – provides enough theatre to draw a crowd. And the smell will fill a high street. Hall's Dorset Smokery has been doing it at festivals for years.
But newcomers are taking it up a level. In their effort to stand out, The Tinderbox in Surrey roast their pork in a unique, handcrafted "teardrop" caravan complete with a traditional wood oven. There's a versatility to their menu, which offers up everything from stonebaked pizza to fish cooked on the bone. But the slow-roasted, BBQ pulled pork with two-root slaw will change your life.

10 of the best street foods in Mumbai

"Your arteries will tighten at the sight, but your stomach will thank you." Pav Bhaji being made. Photograph: Rajkumar Kandukuri/India Pictures on flickr/All rights reserved

Pav bhaji @ Sardar's

A five-minute walk from Mumbai Central station, Sardar's Refreshments specialises in straight-from-the-streets, finger-licking pav bhaji. It's hidden behind white barriers, but mutter "Pav bhaji?" to any passerby and they will point you in the right direction. Two metal plates arrive within minutes: one containing thick vegetable masala straddled by a slab of butter, the other with fluffy rolls so well buttered the bread's yellow. Your arteries will tighten at the sight, but your stomach will thank you. Squeeze some lemon on top and dig in with your fingers.
• Sardar's, 166-A Tardeo Road Junction, Tulsiwadi, near Tardeo bus depot, +91 22 2494 0208, £1 a serving. Open noon-2am

Kebabs @ Sarvi

Photograph: Richard T. Nowitz/Corbis Mohammed Ali Road is the benchmark for skewered kebabs, which hang from smoking stalls like sizzling curtains. But towards the north end, veer left on to Dimtimkar Road and head to Sarvi. It's been around for 90 years, has no sign, looks fire damaged, and grills the most tender beef seekh kebabs in the city. Crisp on the outside and melting in the middle, with a hint of mint – rumour has it they grind papaya into the meat. Get there early evening, as they sell out fast.
• Sarvi, 184/196 Dimtimkar Road, opposite Nagpada Police Station, Byculla West, +91 98 3353 3305, from Rs78 (£1) for four kebabs. Open 9.30am-11.30pm

Vada Pav @ Anand

Photograph: ARKO DATTA/Reuters/Corbis It's every Mumbaikar's grab-and-go snack. Potato patties mashed with garlic, chillies and coriander are dipped in chickpea flour, fried golden, then laid in "pav" – a springy white bap that's well buttered, spread with coriander chutney and sprinkled with garlic and chilli powder. Everyone from students to businessmen flock to the Anand stall, under a purple and green awning, which whips up more than a thousand a day. An added touch is a plate of rock-salted fried green chillies, which aren't nearly as fiery as you might think. Cool off with mini bottles of sweet lassi from the stall to the left.
• Anand, opposite Mithibai College, Gulmohar Road, Vile Parle West, 20p a bap. Open 7.30am-11pm

Pani puri @ Elco Pani Puri Centre

Photograph: PDX on flickr/All rights reserved The craft is part of the fun: vendors poke a thumb into a crisp fried sphere, fill it with potato, chickpeas, onion and sprouted lentils, then dunk it into a sweet-and-sour mix of tamarind and jaggery, then a liquid blend of coriander, mint and garam masala. Eat it whole, and unless you have a stomach of steel, don't go anywhere but Elco Pani Puri Centre, where they use mineral water. Pull up a red plastic stool and sit on the pavement with Bandra's locals, and the occasional Bollywood actress.

Chicken tikka rolls @ Bademiya

Photograph: usheng on Flickr/All rights reserved No Mumbaikar seems to have been to Bademiya before 3am – a testament to the late-night allure of its charcoaled, meaty goodness. A glorified open-air kitchen on wheels, Bademiya sits in a backstreet directly behind the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. Waiters in red aprons appear from a cloud of smoke and hand over plastic menus, but the chicken tikka rolls are the best option. Slid off skewers, the meat is wrapped in a steaming roomali roti – as thin and soft as a handkerchief – and topped with strips of fried onion. No sauce required, its juices are enough.

Bhel puri @ Sharmajee's and Badshah's

Bhel puri is one of the most common all-day snacks: a crunchy, cold, sweet-and-sour mix of puffed rice, sev, chopped onion and potato, and tamarind chutney. It has to be mixed and eaten on the spot, and most vendors will concoct their own variations. Chowpatty Beach is the home of bhel puri, where it should be eaten while strolling along the shore. Try Sharmajee's (No 22) or Badshah's (No 11), amid the cluster of stalls opposite the Levi's Store, where rugs are spread out and bhel puri "touts" will bring it over to you.
• Sharmajee's and Badshah's, Chowpatty Beach, near Charni Road station, 30p per plate. Open all day

Kheema Pav @ Olympia Coffee House

Photograph: drum881 on flickr/All rights reserved Forget trawling Colaba's tourist spots for fry-ups and cereal, and try breakfast the way the locals do it – with a plate of fried minced meat and hunks of bread to mop it up. Directly opposite the infamous Leopold's, Olympia does saucers of delicious masala kheema – and don't forget, this is a coffee house, so top it off with a short, sweet cup. Olympia is a local Muslim haunt with not a female in sight, but female visitors shouldn't be put off: the waiters and customers are friendly, courteous and no one bats an eyelid.

Channa bhatura @ Cream Centre

Photograph: hue.finder on flickr/All rights reserved As a rule, restaurants with laminated menus showing photos of their food aren't to be trusted. Cream Centre is an exception. It does a version of channa bhatura that's a bit on the oily side, but it's rated the best in Mumbai by the hordes of students, families and workers on breaks. Sit tight in your booth as a football-sized, deep-fried puri arrives alongside a bowl of creamy masala chickpeas, diced potatoes and onions. Poke a finger in the top and watch the puri deflate slowly into a chewy bread for scooping up the masala.

 

Crab @ Mahesh Lunch Home

Photograph: Kirti Poddar on Flickr/Some rights reserved Strictly not street food, but it's a sin to come to Mumbai and not eat crab. Trishna is excellent, but full of expats and tourists, so try Mahesh, around the corner from the Mocambo Café, in Fort. Order the jumbo butter garlic crab with a roomali roti to wipe up the crunchy bits of garlic and chilli. If you're unsure about portions, waiters will happily bring your crab to the table to wave a leg at you. There's only one way to eat it – with a bib and both hands, making as much mess as you like.
• Mahesh Lunch Home, 8-B Cawasji Patel Street, Fort, +91 22 2287 0938, £10. Call for opening hours

Juices and milkshakes @ Bachelorr's

Photograph: jvanslem on Flickr/All rights reserved 

  Bachelorr's (yes, they've added an extra "r") is the definitive hangout for smoothies, shakes and juices. It's been in business since the 1940s and has generated a loyal following, who gather by the roadside kiosk during warm evenings, perched on car bonnets and in open boots. The cream-and-strawberry milkshake is a classic, but it also churns out numerous chocolate variations – from Classic Chocolate and Black Gold Premium to Liquid Marble – along with a host of fresh lime, coconut water and lychee juices.

Shanghai's best street foods and stalls

Source: theguardian.com

With the first World Street Food Congress kicking off in Singapore, the Culinary Backstreets network is celebrating the best street food and stalls in the cities covered by its bloggers, kicking off with Shanghai.

Da Hu Chun specialises in juicy pork buns. Photograph: UnTour Shanghai

Shengjianbao

A Shanghai speciality, shēngjiān mántou – or shēngjiān bāo, as they're known everywhere else in China – are juicy pork buns wrapped in bread dough, then arranged in a flat, oil-slicked wok in which the bottoms are fried till they are crispy. Although shēngjiān mántou can be found on most street corners in the morning, we're especially fond of the delicious misshapen buns at Da Hu Chun (11 Sichuan Nan Lu, near Yan'an Dong Lu). An officially recognised Chinese Time-Honored Brand, Da Hu Chun has been splattering grease since the 1930s and, nearly 80 years later, has six restaurants across Shanghai. The venue's chefs use the rare "clear water" technique, frying the pinched side of the dough face-up to create little Frankenstein buns that might not be as photogenic as the more common "troubled water" variety, but that have a thinner skin that gets extra crisp – and we'll sacrifice good looks for better flavour any day.
• Original location at 11 Sichuan Nan Lu, near Yan'an Dong Lu, +86 21 6330 8402. Second location at 71 Yunnan Nan Lu, near Jinling Dong Lu, +86 21 6249 3683. Hours vary, but usually about 7.30am-8pm; Chinese menu only

Guotie

A popular morning snack that gets your arteries clogging early in the day, guō tiē translates literally as "pot stickers." Like their thicker-skinned cousins, shengjianbao (above), they are first fried on the bottom to create a crunchy foundation for the pork filling, then steamed with water under a wooden lid to soften the dumpling skin and cook the meat. You can find vendors hawking both shengjianbao and guotie out of the same shallow wok, but for the best bite, head to the specialists: Huji Potstickers. They fire up their woks at 5.30am inside a narrow alleyway kitchen in the former French Concession, usually selling out well before the lunchtime rush. Packed in like an edible jigsaw puzzle, nearly 100 dumplings line the shallow wok, manned by a laconic cook who spins the pot with a pair of greasy pliers, ensuring that each guotie base gets a liberal swirl of oil and ends up a delicious golden brown. Be warned: these greasy pork-filled bites come out sizzling, so take a small nibble (or chopstick poke) and suck out all the juice before popping them whole into your mouth.
• 209 Pu'an Lu, near Taicang Lu, no phone. Open 5.30-11am; Chinese menu only

Congyoubing

Mr Wu at A Da Congyoubing. Photograph: UnTour Shanghai Cōngyóubing, or scallion oil pancakes – savoury golden rounds slicked with lard, stuffed with salty pork and bright green scallions, then pan-fried in standing oil – are a common breakfast treat in Shanghai, but you haven't tried them until you've sampled the ones from A Da Congyoubing. The grizzled chef, Mr Wu, is one of the few street vendors in town who can command a following that will line up patiently for over an hour just for a bite of his edible wares. He huddles over a scalding grill for up to nine hours a day – no easy task, especially for a man who was born a hunchback. But without fail, Mr Wu single-handedly churns out the best scallion oil pancakes in the city six days a week, using a process he's perfected over the past 30 years. The secret is crisping them up at the end, which he does by rolling back the slick griddle and placing them inside the makeshift 40-gallon barrel, where they are licked to a dark brown crisp by the kerosene-fueled flames.
• Lane 159, back door of no 2 Maoming Lu, near Nanchang Lu, no phone. Open 5am-2pm, closed Wednesday; Chinese menu only

Shaokao

Head to any well-trafficked bar strip in Shanghai and you'll find plumes of smoke rising above the drunken revelry. Shāokao is Chinese barbecue – and the perfect late-night snack. Hungry patrons pick and choose from tables laden with bamboo skewers (chuànr) threaded with a grocery store's worth of meat and vegetables, putting their choices on a silver tray before handing it to the guys manning the grill. They nestle the skewers into the narrow charcoal grill, painting oil on to the kebabs and sprinkling their secret barbecue powder (usually a combination of ground cumin, paprika, chili powder, red chili flakes and Sichuan peppercorn) onto the grilled goods while wafting handheld fans at the coals for a smoky finish.
Try the juicy lamb from Xinjiang province (yángròu): the skewer is pushed through two chunks of meat, then an unctuous cut of fat before being capped off with two more chunks of meat – it's the perfect flavour ratio for glistening meaty kebabs. Or opt for whole yellow croaker fish skewered from tail to tongue (huángyú). Cruciferous veggies like cauliflower and lotus root hold up best to the flames, but leek is another surprisingly tasty option, with its slender green shoots adding an earthy flavour to the mélange.

Jianbing

Sometimes called Chinese crepes, flapjacks or burritos, jiānbing are served up streetside on flat griddles. Originally from Shandong province, jianbing were invented almost two millennia ago – according to legend – to fuel a wok-less army, who fought their way out of an ambush after this simple but efficient meal. While the original version of jianbing consisted of little more than flour mixed with water and cooked on a flat surface over a blazing fire, today's are beefed up with a scrambled egg cracked atop the millet flour pancake. Coriander, green onions and pickled mustard tubers are sprinkled over the egg as it cooks, adding a burst of green freshness. The pancake is folded in half, then slathered in umami-laden soybean paste and spicy chilli flakes. Add a deep-fried wonton wrapper – or sub in a yóutiáo, or fried dough stick, for extra crunch – and then watch as the pancake is wrapped around all the ingredients and thrown into a plastic bag, making for a great handwarmer on a cold winter's day, and the perfect on-the-go meal for any season. Streetside jianbing slingers can be found every few blocks in the morning, but after 11am it's darn near impossible to find a vendor, except for one entrepreneurial woman who caters to all-day jianbing cravings outside the wet market on Wulumuqi Lu.

Fun dining at Japan's street food stalls

Source: theguardian.com

Japan is famed for its elaborate fine dining, but tough economic times means that street-food culture is flourishing in cities such as Kyoto and Tokyo.

Street food in Memory Lane - or Piss Alley - in Shinjuku, Tokyo. Photograph: Jon Arnold/Corbis

My eighth amuse bouche arrived in a porcelain bowl that looked like it belonged in the British Museum. The "potage of Kyoto red carrot in the image of New Year's rising sun" was from a 17-course kaiseki menu – the haute cuisine of Japan, derived from the elaborate 16th-century rituals of the tea ceremony. The highly-formalised style has been an inspiration to the likes of Heston Blumenthal to Ferran Adrià. But with dinner at Hoshinoya in Kyoto costing ¥42,000 (around £330), such sophisticated formality comes at a price. And in a country facing economic stagnation, it's a price that not everyone wants to pay.
The kaiseki style is old-fashioned – deliberately so. Like the shojin ryori menu at the city's Kanga-an Temple. Sitting at a low table, designed to make everyone equal, I ate a bowl of soy bean milk skin, and an imitation chestnut. The prickly exterior – made from buckwheat noodles coloured with green tea – gave way to a sweet potato interior. I admired the artistry of the chef, but I didn't want to eat the food. And, as course followed course, I started to feel trapped by the confines of this Zen banquet. I longed for the freedom of street food.
Street food has never flourished in Japan. The Japanese still see it as rude to eat on the go. But that's starting to change. Sushi started as Tokyo street food, and the best places to eat it are still down by the city's Tsukiji fish market. At one tiny stall, with four stools, I tried chirashi – "scattered sushi". It was the off-cuts of the sushi (mine arrived with salmon, tuna and salmon roe) artfully presented on a donburi. A Tokyo speciality, and – right on the doorstep of Tsukiji – the freshest leftovers I've ever tasted.
The best places for ramen – the delicious Japanese noodle dish – are also on the squares down by the fish market. Inoue for instance (4-9-16 Shin Ohashi Dori, Tsukiji, Chuo-ku, Tokyo), serves a light ramen based on chicken stock – a real treat to eat among the shoppers and market workers. If the weather's cold, head indoors for a heavier ramen at Menya Musashi (Shinjuku-ku, Nishi Shinjuku 7-2-6, Shinjuku, Tokyo) – it's a proper sit-down do, studded with fat pieces of well-marinated pork belly.
Under a nearby railway arch, and running along the pavement (Higashi Gotanda 1-26-8, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo) I had my Lost In Translation moment as a waiter tried to help me identify the skewered meat I was pointing at. "The bit of the bird that gets rid of the grit" he said. Once I had banished the image from my mind, I ordered the gizzard. It was delicious. And only ¥100 (80p) per skewer. I followed it with chicken thigh and pig tongue. Washed down with a soup of radish, carrot and liver. At least I think that's what it was.
But, for me, the spiritual home of Tokyo street food is the maze of tiny 10-cover establishments down Piss Alley. The authorities don't like the name, and are trying to rebrand it "Memory Lane" – without much success. To be honest, they would rather that Piss Alley didn't exist at all. They see street food as poor people's food, and a reminder of a time – straight after the second world war – when Japan didn't have enough to eat. Now that Tokyo has a reputation for high-end restaurant food – including shojin ryori and kaiseki – they don't want to go back.
Mercifully though, the good people of Japan have other ideas. On a Friday night Piss Alley is heaving. It's like a film set of tiny buildings, with staircases leading nowhere. The place feels like it's painted nicotine brown (no smoking laws don't seem to apply to Piss Alley), and then spritzed with a hot, savoury steam. It's beside the railway (at one point, there's a rusty ladder up to the main train track out of Tokyo) and the rumble of trains never goes away. Nor does the smell of fried food and sake, as salarymen eat and drink their fill.
There's Horaiya – an offal shop established in 1947. And Isuzu, which has been hiding behind its wall of beer kegs since 1948. But next door (nobody spoke enough English to tell me the joint's name) they do a huge ball of tempura vegetables – called kakiage – laid to rest in a wonderful savoury broth. The ball was held together with a lot of flour, which is why they only needed to charge me ¥380 for the privilege. But it was so much better at soaking up the broth. And, as I found out, slurping on your broth is deemed good manners.
At Ebisu Yokocho (1-7-2 Ebisu, Shibuya Ward), a version of Piss Alley is being reinvented for a new generation. Here stalls are separated by curtains of plastic, and a cool crowd sit on crates and soap-boxes. At Ebisu Yokocho they have attempted – and succeeded at – what retailers round the world are desperately trying to do. They have put street food indoors. It is a lively food arcade, stuffed with tiny yatai food stalls. Each with its own atmosphere and decor. Yakitori is next to kushikatsu. But it doesn't feel Disney. Expect to see this version of Japanese street food in a town near you sometime soon.
Japanese street food isn't all about Tokyo, however. Osaka has a strong street food culture, and the batter-based okonomiyaki pancakes are city specialities. And in Kyoto, I found something of a bygone era about a sweet-potato seller. Even down to the hawker's cry – "ishi-yakiimo-ya" – announcing his arrival. The sweet potato has held a special place in Japanese culture since it saved the country from famine in the mid-18th century after the rice crop failed. The fact that in Kyoto it comes deep fried, and candied with a sweet-salty syrup certainly helps.
Nishiki is Kyoto's covered market, and home to its best street food. I found a baby octopus served on a lollipop stick. And I tasted extraordinary mochi – soft, round, rice cakes – stuffed with red bean paste and grilled. They were somewhere between sweet and savoury, and a reminder of how different the Japanese palate is from our own. And I watched a proud biscuit maker wielding his waffle irons over hot coals like a Samurai warrior. Japan's culture already fascinates the world – its street food has the capacity to do the same. If only the authorities can learn not to be so embarrassed by it.

The world's best street food

Source: theguardian.com

Street food stall in Bangkok, Thailand. Photograph: Luigi Vaccarella/SIME/SIME/4Corners Images

Mohinga, Burma

What is it? This comforting noodle soup exemplifies the earthy flavours of the country's cuisine. It is fish broth thickened with rice or bean powder, and typically containing a combination of shallots, the crunchy edible core of the banana tree, thin round rice noodles and chopped coriander.
Origin Mohinga is made from almost exclusively indigenous ingredients, suggesting that the dish has native origins; most south-east Asian noodle dishes can be traced back to China.
Tasting Mohinga is sold in just about every town in Burma, typically from mobile carts and baskets, or basic open-fronted restaurants. Mohinga vendors are most prevalent in the morning. Ordering is simple, as the only optional ingredient is akyaw (crispy fritters of lentils or vegetables). The thick broth has flakes of freshwater fish (typically snakehead fish), a yellow/orange hue due to the addition of turmeric, and a light herbal flavour, thanks to the use of lemongrass.
Finding it in Burma … If you're in Rangoon, head to Myaung Mya Daw Cho (118A, New Yae Tar She Lane, Bahan Township) where a bowl will set you back K5 (50p).
And in the UK … There is no Burmese street food in the UK. The Mandalay (mandalayway.com/restaurant/index.html) is a Burmese restaurant on London's Edgware Road. Its fritters and ohn no khao swe (coconut chicken noodles) are pretty authentic. Mohinga is on the menu, spelt mokhingar.

Banh mi, Vietnam

Photograph: Rebecca Skinner/Lonely Planet What is it? A little-known secret is that the world's best sandwich isn't found in Rome, Copenhagen or even New York City, but on the streets of Vietnam. It begins with a light baguette grilled over coals. After a smear of mayonnaise and a dollop of pâté, the crispy shell is filled with meat, crunchy pickled vegetables and fresh herbs. It is then typically seasoned with a few drops of soy sauce and a spicy chilli condiment.
Origin An early example of fusion food, banh mi shows an obvious link with the French, rulers of Vietnam in the early 20th century. Other ingredients, including xa xiu, the barbecued pork better known as char siu, have Chinese origins, while the herbs and seasonings are distinctively south-east Asian.
Tasting Banh mi is the epitome of street food: the sandwiches are sold almost exclusively from stalls and vendors. Seating usually takes the form of tiny plastic stools, and the sandwiches are generally served to go, wrapped in recycled paper. Pâté? Meatballs or grilled pork? Chilli? Mayonnaise? Diners choose their meats, toppings and condiments. A collection of the best of south-east Asian cuisine in a western package.
Finding it in Vietnam … If you're in the coastal city of Hoi An, head to Phuong on Hoang Dieu, a legendary banh mi stall where a sandwich costs 15,000 dong (about 45p)
And in the UK … Anh and Van, two schoolfriends from Hanoi, came up with the name Banhmi11 because, in their mind, the perfect banh mi is 11 bites big. They make everything from scratch, even pickling their own daikon. They now trade in London's Broadway market .

Daulat ki chaat, Delhi, India

Photograph: Greg Elms/Lonely Planet What is it? This sweet, delightful treat is as light as air and as heavenly as moonlight. Sweetened, whisked milk is decorated with saffron, giving it an appealing orange-and-white tint. On to this is sometimes added a layer of edible silver leaf called varq. Although it's little more than insubstantial froth, it has a unique taste. It's a popular Old Delhi street snack in winter.
Origin It's possible that Mughal emperors were among the first to savour this treat.
Tasting The first taste imparts a hint of butter, then the tongue detects the subtle flavour of saffron, followed by the pistachios, unrefined sugar and dried condensed milk sprinkled on top. The initial impression soon fades to leave behind a hint of creamy sweetness. It's a touch of the divine, a contrast with the noisy bustle of the bazaars where it's usually found. Because daulat ki chaat would collapse in high temperatures, it's only prepared in the cooler months.
Finding it in Delhi … There are usually one or two vendors in the Kinari Bazaar near Chandni Chowk metro station. A serving costs R10 (12p).
And in the UK … Manjit from caterer Manjit's Kitchen (manjitskitchen.com) in Leeds says: "It really needs buffalo milk to get it going, which takes hours to froth up." Refrigeration rules here make it difficult to sell on the street, but Manjit is happy making it for clients at home.

Phat Kaphrao, Thailand

What is it? Phat kaphrao may not get the instant recognition of, say, pad Thai, but this spicy, herby, meaty stir-fry is the go-to one-dish meal for many Thais. Kaphrao means holy basil, the essential ingredient in this stir-fried dish. The leaves are fried with minced pork, chicken or seafood, along with chopped garlic, chillies and, sometimes, chopped long bean. The dish is seasoned with fish sauce and a pinch of sugar, served over rice and usually crowned with a fried egg.
Origin This dish is a relatively recent introduction to Thai cuisine, although holy basil has probably been used here for centuries. It has long been a sacred plant among Hindus.
Tasting Unlike with other Thai street dishes, there generally aren't vendors who specialise only in phat kaphrao. The dish is typically found at raan ahaan taam sang (made-to-order) carts, stalls and restaurants, which do a variety of dishes and are recognised by a tray or case of raw ingredients. Phat kaphrao is always served with a small bowl of finely sliced chillies in fish sauce and sometimes a squeeze of lime – the Thai equivalent of the salt shaker.
Finding it in Thailand … Any raan ahaan taam sang will serve phat kaphrao, from 30-50 baht (60p-£1).
And in the UK … Jackie Kearney, MasterChef 2011 finalist and founder of thehungrygecko.com in Manchester, is vegetarian. "In Bangkok you see holy basil with pork or chicken mostly (moo or gai). For a veggie version, I'd use mushrooms and/or tofu."

Burek, Bosnia-Herzegovina

Photograph: Alamy What is it? Crisp yet moist, hearty yet subtly spiced, burek is the Balkan street food. Filo pastry is filled with aromatic minced meat, spinach (zeljanica), or cheese and herbs (sirnica), then rolled, glossed with butter or olive oil and baked till golden. Burek can be eaten at any hour: for breakfast accompanied by black tea, or after a busy night in the bars of Sarajevo's Bašcaršija district.
Origin Burek originates in Turkey, where it is called börek, from Turkish burmak (to twist).
Tasting Though burek can be eaten hot or cold, it's best straight from the oven. The pastry will be nicely flaky on the outside, but on the inside it should be tender, with the consistency of perfectly cooked pasta. In Bosnia it is cooked in great spirals, in round baking trays. Choose your variety and the baker will slice it with a pizza cutter and wrap it in butcher's paper for you.
Finding it In Sarajevo, bakeries (pèkare) sell burek by weight. Expect to pay around 3MK-5MK (£1.30-£2.15) for a good serving.
And in the UK … Kada from Moorish Feasts (moorishcatering.co.uk) in Leeds makes a version of burek, wrapping two layers of filo round goat's cheese and lamb merguez. He serves it with chakchouka, a red pepper sauce pepped up with cinnamon.

Sfenj, Morocco

What is it? As croissants are to the French, so are sfenj to Moroccans. They are uniquely spongy, deep-fried pastry rings made of unsweetened, sticky yeast dough, with no milk or butter added. They are noshed as a morning treat, then again in late afternoon.
Origin Believed to have been imported by Arabs in the 18th century, sfenj were originally available from stands selling roasted lamb's head (a traditional breakfast dish) in the souks.
Tasting Amid the eye-popping and energy-sapping commotion of Morocco's labyrinthine medinas, sfenj are a perfect boost. They should always be ordered fresh – you'll be able to witness their preparation. Sfenj can be hard to get right. The eating, though, is gratifyingly easy: when sweetly garnished, sfenj are light confections of which just one is rarely enough.
Finding it The best sfenj are prepared in hanout (closet-sized booths) in the medinas of Morocco's biggest cities, where they sell for 1 dirham (7p) each or 23 dirham (£1.75) a kilo.
And in the UK … Kada of Moorish Feasts (as above) was voted Best Caterer at Glastonbury for his sfenj. "I remember hot summer days on the beach in Algeria and some little kid walking along the hot sand selling sfenj and mint tea for a few dinars." Kada adds lemon or orange zest to the sugar, and nigella seeds for authenticity.

Walkie-talkies, South Africa

Photograph: Alamy What is it? Walkie-talkies are the feet (walkies) and heads (talkies) of chickens. They are boiled together to facilitate the removal of chewier bits, then the pieces are seasoned and cooked according to taste.
Origin During apartheid, wealthy farmers favoured the meatiest parts of the chicken. Leftovers – such as heads and feet – were given to workers and people in the townships.
Tasting Township markets are always a wonder of sights, sounds and smells. Some walkie-talkies are boiled, with added salt and spices; others are stewed with onions, green peppers and tomatoes; lately, they are grilled, too. You stick the feet in your mouth toes first, and scrape the skin and meat off with your teeth. The rest can be chewed up for the bone marrow. It takes a bit of determined crunching, but not as much as for the head, which is eaten whole (minus beak).
Finding it Although best known at stalls by inner-city taxi ranks and in the townships of Durban and Soweto, walkie-talkies are sold countrywide for about 10 rand (85p) a kilo.
And in the UK … Hazvineyi Mapungwana of Shekinah African Food (shekinahafricanfood.co.uk) in Keighley, West Yorkshire, serves walkie-talkies with sadza (cornmeal) because she's from Zimbabwe. "In South Africa they eat them with pap [maize porridge]. The heads and feet can either be dry-fried, with salt and pepper, or served in a stew."

Tamales, Mexico

Photograph: The food passionates/Corbis What is it? Breakfast bliss or twilight snack, these steamed, corn-husk-clad delights are pure comfort food, in sweet savoury, spicy or bland versions.Pork or chicken with salsa or mole are the most popular, along with poblano chillies and cheese. The package is wrapped in corn husks or banana leaf and steamed until soft and seductive.
Origin Found all over Central and South America, tamales were a staple for Aztecs, Mayans and Incas.
Tasting Look for vast steel containers leaking steam on pretty much every street corner. This is a snack for even the most cautious gastronaut, as all the steaming makes for a safe mouthful. The fillings are bit parts compared with the steamed dough itself, which should sing of maize, with a texture that subtly succumbs to the bite.
Finding it Tamales Especiales in Coyoacán, Mexico City (Centenario 180, Col. del Carmen) is a member of the Mexican Slow Food movement. It offers takeaways during the week, with tables in the garden on Saturday and Sunday nights. Tamales will set you back 10-15 pesos each (50p-75p).
And in the UK … Roland from London's Flaming Cactus (flamingcactus.co.uk) is trialling chicken tamales at festivals this summer. He's relaxed about ingredients ("tamales are borne of poverty"), but will serve them with sauce made from tomatillos – green tomatoes with a sharp citrus flavour.

Red red, Ghana

What is it? Hot, sweet and spicy, red red pairs beans with fried plantains and zomi (red palm oil). The key to red red is one of the reds: zomi has a rich, nutty taste. Onions and (red) chilli are fried in zomi and added to black-eyed peas, then topped with more zomi and gari (fermented dried cassava powder). Plantains (koko, also red), sliced, salted and deep-fried, accompany the beans.
Origin Everyone loves red red, but it's a favourite of the Ewe group from eastern Ghana and Togo. Beans are an inexpensive protein, which makes red red Ghana's national cheap lunch.
Tasting Red red's natural habitat is lunch shacks and roadside stands. If you wait near other diners, you'll hear "You are invited!" – the traditional offering to share food. The red red is hot and the oil on the plantains still sizzling when it is served, maybe on a dried plantain leaf. The beans are soft and salty and the plantains soft and sweet with crispy edges.
Finding it Red red is good everywhere, but in the Community 12 region of Tema in Greater Accra, it's extraordinary. A light-lunch portion costs one cedi (40p).
And in the UK … Adwoa Hagan-Mensah of jollofpot.co.uk in London has seen red red in Ghana cooked with snail, goat, even bushrat. But in London, she says, they have "simplified the dish by making it vegan, with no palm oil".

Currywurst, Germany

Photograph: The food passionates/Corbis What is it? Currywurst transforms sausage, chopped and doused in a spicy tomato sauce, into night-time nirvana. Some favour a sauce with Indian spicing; others prefer pure chilli heat. Then there's the choice of chips, white bread or wholegrain roll …
Origin In 1949 when Berlin lay in ruins, a woman called Herta Heuwer got hold of some English curry power, added it to a tomato sauce and slathered it over chopped sausage. Her stall, near what became the red-light district, was popular with builders and labourers.
Tasting It's been a long night. As you stumble home, you make out a beacon of red neon light. The queues are long and rowdy, but with no hint of aggression. You shuffle forward, mumble your order and proceed to lean against a bright red Coca-Cola table. In the cardboard carton are two sausages, chopped up and smothered in mildly spicy tomato sauce. You stagger home happy, then return to see what it tastes like when sober. It's every bit as good.
Finding it Currywurst 36, at Mehringdamm 36 in Berlin, may be a tourist mecca, but the Currywurst is damned good. Expect to pay €2 to €3.50 throughout Berlin.
And in the UK … Currywurst is often considered German junk food. But Babushkas (babushkasonline.com) in Cheadle, south Manchester, serves a healthy version. High meat-content grilled bratwurst is served on roasted potatoes with a home-made curry sauce rich in tomato, topped with fresh parsley and, for those who like it hot, chilli flakes or cayenne pepper.

Street Food Festival: win tickets

Fancy trying some of these dishes? Lonely Planet has three pairs of tickets to its Street Food Festival (crowdsurge.com/streetfoodfestival) in London to give away to Guardian readers. Some of the capital's top street food vendors will be at the two-night event, cooking a range of recipes from The World's Best Street Food. The market will be in Shoreditch on 28-29 March.
Tickets are available from 25 Febuary 2012 and cost £10 (plus booking fee) and include three dishes to try. For your chance to win tickets to the preview of the event at 6pm on 28 March, email streetfood@lonelyplanet.co.uk with "Guardian" in the email subject. The first three people to email will get a pair of tickets.

London's best street food

Source: timeout.com

Like a cheap eat? Want to know where to eat when you're at one of London's food markets? Here’s our guide to affordable street food in London's best food markets, from sit-down cafés to takeaways, tried and tasted by Time Out's Eating & Drinking reviewers.

Berwick Street Market

Berwick Street Market, between Broadwick Street & Peter Street, W1. Oxford Circus. Mon-Fri; stall times vary, but arrive noon-2pm for lunch.

Historic Berwick Street Market, situated in the heart of Soho, only has a handful of food stalls operating on weekdays (Monday can be pretty quiet, so visit from Tuesday for a wider choice of food). But we include it here for the central West End location, and the fact you should be able to pick up lunch for around a fiver. If it’s a nice day, head to Soho Square to sit on the grass. The selection changes daily, but the following stalls are often present.

In addition to the delicious baguettes, pho soups and noodle salads from Vietnamese favourite Banhmi11 (www.banhmi11.com), expect to find the Pizza Pilgrims (www.pizzapilgrims.co.uk), aka brothers James and Thom Elliott, who operate from the back of a tiny Piaggio Ape three-wheeler van – yes, there really is a pizza oven in there. For real meaty goodness, the burgers from the Tongue ’n Cheek (www.tonguencheek.info) van deliver a choice of prime cuts of beef with cheddar, or pork belly with gorgonzola. Other options may include falafel wraps from the suitably named Jerusalem Falafel, beef tagine from Moroccan Box, Mexican burritos from Freebird Burritos (www.freebirdburritos.com), Indian fare including curries, samosas and paneer wraps from Tandoor, and pork pies, sandwiches and cakes from the Bread Man. Further south towards Shaftesbury Avenue, on Rupert Street, you’ll find a smattering of other stalls, including Somboon Thai Food, which dispenses curries and noodle dishes.

10 of the best places to eat street food in Mexico City

Source: theguardian.com

Tasty, cheap and authentic, quality street food is enjoying a boom. In sprawling Mexico City there are thousands of stalls and taquerias to choose from. The author of Good Food in Mexico City picks his top 10

Tostadas: Tostadas de Coyoacán

In the middle of the folkloric Coyoacán market, once the haunt of Frida Kahlo, you'll find gastronomic art at Tostadas de Coyoacán. Tostadas are deep-fried corn tortillas with a heap of something good on top. This bustling and colourful stall offers more than a dozen huge plates of mouthwatering toppings. Fresh shrimp prepared with tomato and chilli, chicken in brick-red salsa, crab salad, pork in chocolate-y mole, and the list goes on. Start with a succulent lemony ceviche, topped with bright green salsa, then move on to pulpo (octopus), then, perhaps, cochinita pibil, tangy pulled pork from the Yucatán. To drink, order an agua de frutas – literally fruit water– in melon, say, or pineapple, from the stand next door.
• Inside the Mercado Coyoacán, at Calle Malintzin, between Aguayo & Allende, a short walk from Coyoacán's central plaza, open daily 9am-7pm

Seafood: El Caguamo

El Caguamo (the name is slang for a litre beer bottle) is a simple tin shack on the sidewalk in the historic centre of the city, and it's the best place in the city for fresh seafood. It's packed with young fans and old-timers alike, downing deep-fried fish fillets, shrimp cocktails, tostadas and ceviches. Served in a parfait glass or on a crisp fried corn tortilla, ceviches are salads of fish, crab, squid or octopus, marinated in lime juice and white herbal vinegar, then finished off with a little olive oil and a few slices of avocado, chopped tomato, chilli, onion and coriander. The simple dressing compliments the seafood without overwhelming it – a perfect balance of salty, sour, and fishy umami.
• Calle Ayuntamiento, near López, a few blocks south of the Alameda, Centro, open Mon-Sat, approximately 11am-6pm

Tacos al pastor: El Huequito

The most chilango (slang for 'from Mexico City') food of all, tacos al pastor are the perhaps the only dish truly associated with capital itself. El Huequito (which means the little hole-in-the-wall) has been in business since 1959 in the old centre. These tacos, the legacy of the city's many Lebanese immigrants, a variation of shawarma, the grilled marinated meat dish popular throughout the Middle East. Here pork, thinly sliced, is swathed in a chilli sauce, roasted on a revolving spit, sliced off, enhanced with chopped onion and coriander, and rolled up in a small tortilla. The meat is juicy and succulent, the smoky grilled aroma lingering until you take the next bite. These 12-peso morsels are pure corazón Mexicano (heart of Mexico).
• Ayuntamiento 21, a few blocks south of the Alameda, Centro, open daily, 8am-10pm

Tacos de guisados: Taquería El Guero (Hola)

Guisados are saucy stews with a thousand variations. Mexicans love them wrapped in a fragrant soft corn tortilla. This small standing-room-only taquería, identified on its awning with the single word "HOLA", is renowned locally, a favourite of Condesa hipsters. Unusually for Mexico, several vegetarian choices are offered. Try the quelites (cooked leafy greens), acelgas (Swiss chard) or coliflór (fried cauliflower.) The protocol is to order one at a time, and save your plate for more. The aguas frescas (fresh fruit drinks) are very refreshing.
• Avenida Amsterdam 135, near Michoacán, Condesa, open Mon-Sat 11am- 6pm

Tortas: Tortas Been

The torta, Mexico's version of the sandwich, is quintessentially Mexico City. It's a fast food that blends European and Mexican cultures. The story goes that it was invented by one Sr Armando, an Italian immigrant, as his riff on the Italian panino – he adapted it to available ingredients and the locals' penchant for avocado and chilli. Tortas Been is located inside an odd pasaje, or indoor passage, which is also home to several stores selling Mexican folkloric costumes. The tortas de pierna (roast pork leg), pollo (chicken) or pavo ahumado (smoked turkey) are worth the 10-minute walk from the Zócalo. Their secret is the sour cream, applied to the roll, adding extra calories but rich flavour.
• Inside the pasaje at República del Salvador 152, a few blocks east of the Zócalo, Centro, open Mon-Sat until about 6.30pm

Carnitas: La Reina de la Roma

"But eet ees confit!" a French friend exclaimed when shown a pit where carnitas were slowly roasting in their own fat. Appropriately named "little meats", carnitas are tender shredded bits of pork, from all parts of the pig, eaten as tacos. They're unceremoniously served heaped on a plate, with an array of red and green salsas, coriander, onions and lime; and fresh warm corn tortillas, of course. The roasted aroma of these porky treats emanates from La Reina de la Roma, a simple fonda with a few tables spilling on to the street, in the old Colonia Roma neighborhood, near its interesting central market. Ask for maciza if you don't care for the fatty bits.
• Campeche 106 (in front of the Mercado Medellín), Colonia Roma, open Tues-Sun 9am-6pm

Pozole: Pozole Doña Yoli

Pozole is the ultimate Mexican comfort food.  It is a hearty meat broth, laced with chilli and loaded with hominy, known as cacahuazintle in Mexico. A one-dish meal, it is served with sides of tostadas, avocado, onion, radishes, lime wedges, chilli powder and oregano to be sprinkled on as the diner wishes. Doña Yoli, a humble operation, has been doling out luscious red pozole for decades. The rich broth contains pork, maize, all the trimmings described above, and good tostadas are served on the side. It's a great stop before or after a visit to the wonderful Museo de San Ildefonso (sanildefonso.org.mx) next door.
• Calle San Ildefonso 42, (upstairs in the commercial plaza) north of the Zócalo, open Mon-Sat, 12-6pm

Grilled meat tacos: Los Parados 

This corner hangout is open all day but is particularly popular late at night. It does the best tacos al carbon (meats cooked over coals on an open grill) in town. Costilla (ribs), arrachera (beefsteak), chorizo, chicken – they've got it all here. Salsas are homemade, beautiful and powerful. Mexican-style burgers (topped with salsa, bacon, cheese) are sensational. Customers from all walks of life happily devour their succulent char-roasted morsels of goodness, while downing ice-cold beer or horchata, a milky-looking drink made from rice.
• Monterrey 333, corner of Baja California, Colonia Roma, open daily, morning til the wee hours

Late-night tacos: El Borrego Viudo

This legendary end of the party taquería specialises in the aforementioned tacos al pastor, as well as tacos de cabeza (beef head) and suadero (thin-cut beef brisket or breast). They're served with tepache, an old- fashioned, lightly fermented but non-alcoholic pineapple juice drink. If you are driving, there's an enormous garage where you can park and eat – good for a late-night/early morning snack accompanied by other semi-conscious revellers.
• Av. Revolución 241, corner of Viaducto, Colonia Tacubaya, open daily 24 hours

Flautas: Puesto de Flautas

 Flautas are elongated rolled corn tortillas, hence the name, which means flute. They're filled with potatoes, chicken, cheese or barbacoa (roast lamb), deep-fried golden-crisp, topped with sour cream and salsa verde, then sprinkled with grated queso fresco (white cheese) and shredded lettuce. For reasons unknown, flautas are usually served with caldo de gallina, a chicken soup better than any Jewish grandmother could make. Exemplary flautas are put out by the simply named Puesto de Flautas stand in the fashionable art-deco Condesa neighbourhood. Business is so good that they have expanded into the facing storefront. A chilled mango Boing! is the perfect accompaniment.
• West side of Calle Chilpancingo, fourth from the corner of Baja California by the metro Chilpancingo stop, Condesa, open Mon-Sat for lunch